Fashion Blogs

If you didn’t know better this New York Fashion Week, you could think that climate change had ­affected not just the temperature (still scorching in September) but also designers’ state of mind. If it’s the spring 2017 collections, why are we seeing so many woollen coats and chunky knits?

But, of course, this was the first real season of the “see now, buy now” revolution sweeping global runways. The traditional model — of media and buyers seeing collections six months ahead of them dropping in store — hasn’t kept up with the digital revolution of ­recent years, of an ever-hungrier consumer who can get whatever they want, whenever they want.

And so, many brands are turning to what they consider a more logical, and potentially financially beneficial, scenario, one in which the clothing on the catwalk — shared instantly via social media channels around the world — is available in stores immediately. No lag time. No six-month waiting game.

So this spring season saw many showcase their autumn collections, now in store.

Leading the charge were some of the American brand behemoths: Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren, notably.

Having both shown autumn collections in their traditional ­February slot this year, they had to offer bridging collections, Hilfiger turning to It girl Gigi Hadid for a collaborative capsule that was all military, nautical and American sports inspired — all the Team Tommy touchpoints. Lauren closed off the section of Madison Avenue outside his store to show his take on Americana, from cowboy to red carpet.

Another designer that took her show to the street was Rebecca Minkoff. The New York-based ­designer got the jump on the concept last season so is uniquely placed to explain the ­advantages the second time around — most important, how the move translated into sales ­results.

“When we did it in February it was incredibly complicated and a logistic nightmare,” Minkoff tells The Australian. “But our results were 200 per cent higher looking at February to February numbers. So once we realised the power of that, why would we ever look back?”

No one can argue with that.

The numbers don’t just refer to Minkoff’s own retail stores and e-commerce but also across her wholesale partners (including David Jones in Australia), which make up 70 per cent of her business. The spike continued this ­season, immediately following the show.

“On Saturday we did our highest day of retail ever — and we didn’t even have a full day to sell: we opened at one o’clock and closed at six. In five hours to beat any day you’ve had? For us it’s the right thing to do.”

And from a consumer base, she adds: “The customer wants ­immediacy. She can have it in almost every other area of her life — music, TV shows — and now she wants it with her clothes.”

Tom Ford returned to New York Fashion Week with a dinner and show, having skipped last season to showcase his typically glamorous autumn collection (now available at Harrolds in Sydney and Melbourne).

Thakoon took a leave of absence for the past year to jump into this immediate offering.

Some of the big names offered a partial concession to the new way of thinking, showcasing spring ­col­lec­tions but with ele­ments that were avai­l­able ­immediately.

Amid his spring ­florals and swimwear, Michael Kors included a cashmere LOVE sweater, a handful of dresses and separates, shoes and bags in store and online now (in the US at any rate).

Boss Hugo Boss also took this route, with its latest Bespoke Soft bag available immediately after the show, in stores (including Australia) and ­online.

“I think it makes sense for Boss,” ­designer Jason Wu tells Life. “And it wasn’t the fact that everyone else is doing it.

“We now have live­streaming blasting out to 1000 stores (around the world with VIP customers ­atten­ding), so why wouldn’t we offer something for our customers right away? We have a captive audience. I wouldn’t say that method would work for everybody, but it does for Boss.”

Wu says the brand will “play it by ear” as to whether it will put a whole collection on the runway that is available immediately.

Most brands stuck to the traditional model, and for many of them it still makes sense.

Tibi’s Amy Smilovic wouldn’t be drawn on the subject, saying only: “I don’t have time for that. We sell it when it’s in store.” Her buoyant spring dresses were some of the standouts of the week.

For others, it’s about combining the traditional model with new ­activations and access points to engage consumers.

“When it comes to fashion week, there’s still something magical about presenting the next season’s collection to the industry,” says Cynthia Rowley, who showed her Resort collection at Australian Fashion Week this year.

The day after her spring presentation to industry in New York, customers were invited via social media to come and have a look at the feather-filled room with frolicking models, to share further still via the same means. While the jewellery looks were available ­immediately, Rowley added that partnering with the likes of Moda Operandi, which allows consumers to pre-order pieces, helps to bridge the gap between seeing and buying.

“Designers need to figure out what’s right for their brand and their business. For us it’s about constantly creating newness and seasonless collections that cater to the global audience we connect with on social media.”

Minkoff is sticking to her guns about the changeover, and has one final salient point. “At the end of the day people make clothes to sell them,” she says. “The new way is selling things, and isn’t that why we’re all here — to sell product?”Read more at:mermaid formal dresses