Parting company with Mercedes-Benz and welcoming Amazon as its new headline sponsor, Fashion Week in Tokyo is in the throes of change. Despite an absence of notable names on a sometimes inconsistent schedule, there were some true gems this season. Newcomer BED j.w. FORD’s moodily sophisticated collection featured some of the most promising menswear to come out of the capital for a while, and Mikio Sakabe’s 10th anniversary homecoming show in Miyashita Park provided much-needed theatrics with a runway lit by mobile cherry pickers.
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Eighties-inspired menswear was a mainstay trend, as were pinstripes shown in myriad forms. Clean-cut outerwear with twisted variants was a frequent go-to, and layered, playful tailoring was prominent in both styling and design. See: the shirts worn over shirts at DressedUndressed and the inside-out silk paneling at Plastic Tokyo. Daring pops of color were used to fabulous effect at Name. with its orange workwear, and in the neon accessories at Discovered.
At Tokyo’s core, craftsmanship continues to reign. From the coolly austere architecture of Ethosens to the warmth and darkness of Nehanne Mihara Yasuhiro’s homage to Japan’s history, the painstaking attention to detail of the city’s designers can’t be beat. A predictable takeaway, perhaps, but as brands in Tokyo have a tendency to drop off the schedule—and the clashing Fashion Week held by increasingly stylish Seoul threatens to steal its limelight—consistency in Japan is key at the moment. Albeit somewhat quietly, Tokyo is still fizzing with talent.
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