Fashion Blogs

Nine yards of wonder, adorning a lissom lass for the very first time or sitting coyly on a demure bride. These nine yards can spin magic and revive the charm of a mature dame or exude poise on the contours of a wide-eyed maiden. Legacy of the bygone eras and traditions older than time itself. Let us discover the wonderful heirloom that engulfs the weaving traditions of India.

India has been the abode to centuries of intricate artwork on fabrics. Not only artisans but also royalty took part in weaving and embroidery. It is believed that the famous thread work on Muslin fabrics called ‘chikankari’ was invented by the Mughal queen, Nur Jahan. The queen was a gifted artisan and skilled at needlework.

Such has been the ornate tradition of weaving in India that each region has its own weaving style and custom. The proficient master weavers embellish the fabrics with distinctive and exquisite patterns and prints. Many tales arise from a specific pattern that take us back to hundreds of years of skilled craftsmanship and ingenuity.

An artisan is responsible for retaining the ancient history of the weaving traditions while also making them functional and befitting for a modern lifestyle. The idea is to create a melange of heritage and purposefulness.

Weaving Traditions - Glory of the North: Exuberance and frolic

Jammu & Kashmir: The pristine mountains of this northernmost state in India boast of a rich culture of weaving. Pashmina literally means made from wool. The soft fabric cannot tolerate the high tension of machines and hence, has to be handwoven. Weavers create a delicate design in a style known as ‘kashidakari’ for days together. Multiple stitches on the same spot are a speciality of kashidakari. Every artisan is assigned with different duties and it can take many people to create a single piece of design.

Punjab: The exuberant air of Punjab is resonated in the form of ‘Phulkari’, a bright and vivid form of embroidery. Phulkari means flower work and is characterized by geometrical patterns. Silk threads are used to create darn stitches on cotton. The motifs are mainly inspired from day-to-day life and crops.

An oasis of dyes

Rajasthan: The land of majestic kings and regal queens is famed for its history, bravery and celebrated architecture. It is also famous for its weaving and embroidery conventions.

Kota weaving traditions come from Kota, Rajasthan. The distinguishing features of this type of weaving are the square checks known as ‘khats’. Light-weight silk and cotton sarees are used and strengthened by rice and onion juices.

The tie and dye style of weaving, known as ‘Bandhani’, is very popular among the general populace. A cloth is dyed using a natural colour and then tied. This tying creates a pattern. Patterns can be changed by tying the fabric in a different manner and using the tying thread at different points.

‘Leheriya’ weaving is another tie and dye style of Rajasthan. Leher simply means waves and like Bandhani, the fabric is dyed and then tied at different points. However, unlike Bandhani where patterns of flowers are created, waves in zigzag pattern are formed by Leheriya.

The silken drapes

Uttar Pradesh: The Hindi heartland, vast and varied, offers some of the finest weaving traditions in silk and cotton.

Varanasi, Banaras, Kashi- call it what you may but this ancient city represents hundreds of years of silk and muslin weaving. This city that promises to grant salvation to those who die in its arms also reminds of an opulent culture and splendid past.

The Banarasi silk sarees are known for their heavy and rich designs, intricate zari work and fine weaving traditions. Banarasi silk weaves are adorned with floral patterns with the use of gold and silver threads, net-like patterns and minakari patterns. Banarasi sarees are worn by brides on their weddings. They are worn on weddings, festivals and important occasions. Due to their heavy look and feel, they give away an aura of affluence and luxury.

Another famous embroidery style is the ‘chikankari’ of Lucknow. Fine thread work is done on cotton and muslin cloths. The colours are on the lighter side. Patterns are mainly floral and follow a line stitch pattern. Nur Jahan, wife of Jahangir, has been credited with the invention of chikankari though several other stories are also around.

Bihar: Bhagalpuri or Tussar Silk comes from the city of Bhagalpur in Bihar. Aptly called the ‘Silk City of India’, Bhagalpur is home to plentiful silk manufacturers and weavers. Bhagalpuri silk is known for its hardiness in conjunction with its glossy and shiny exterior. The sheen of the Bhagalpuri Silk is unparalleled and has no rivals. Tussar cocoons are used to spin a Bhagalpuri silk yarn. The designs are inspired by folk motifs.

Melody of the East

Assam: The eastern state of tea gardens is equally famous for its ‘Mekhela Sador’ which resembles a saree but is actually a three-piece outfit. Muga silk, Pat silk, and Eri silk are some of the frequently used fabrics.

Muga silk is well-known for its soft texture and durability. This silk lasts a lifetime and even more. The sheen of this fabric astonishingly increases after washing. Pat silk is obtained from mulberry silkworms. The silk is white in colour and is often used in making of the Mekhela Sador.

West Bengal: The kohl-lined eyes of Bengali ladies gleam with joy as they adorn sarees of ‘Taant’ and ‘Kantha’. The district of Murshidabad is famous for ‘tant’ sarees which comprise of thick borders and are light-weight and airy. They are suitable for the hot weather of the subcontinent and are used for daily wear. The Jamdani variety is exceptionally popular due to its fine weave. The prices are low to increase affordability.

‘Kanta’ is a type of embroidery where multiple sarees are stitched together to form quilts and covers. It is one of the most ancient embroidery techniques used in India.

Odisha: ‘Bomkai’ sarees produced by the Bhulla caste people of Odisha have been around for centuries. These sarees are also known as ‘Sonepuri’ sarees. The designs are indigenous and feature fish at the border which represents wealth and prosperity. They are also heavily influenced by tribal art. Tribal culture is an inherent part of Odisha as twenty-two percent of its population is tribal. the Bomkai sarees are created by Bhulla people and influenced by tribal traditions. The aristocratic and priestly classes wear these sarees. They are highly priced due to their fine fabric and glossy texture.

A royal connection

Madhya Pradesh:  Chanderi sarees have a rich past. Chanderi was patronized by the Scindias and the Mughals and brought to the forefront. Zarikari, brocade, animal motifs and leaf motifs are used. The fabric can be both cotton and silk. Chanderi sarees are light and breezy. They are perfect for the hot weather of the plains and are preferred by Indian women. The fabric is transparent which makes it stylish and chic.

Maheshwari sarees originated from Maheshwar district of Madhya Pradesh. Much like Chanderi sarees, Maheshwari sarees are also gauzy and light. The sarees are quite colourful and have floral and stripe motifs.

Weaving Traditions - Rituals of the West

Gujarat: From the Patan district in Gujarat comes the ‘Patola’ saree. Patola sarees are extremely expensive and are woven by males only. The weaver families pass down the knowledge from one generation to another. The techniques are unknown to others outside these families. The technique is known as the double ikat and it takes a long time to make one saree. Geometrical patterns and bright colours are used in Patola sarees.

Maharashtra: The ‘Paithani’ saree originated from the Aurangabad district. The saree is known for its square border and single and multi-coloured designs. Paithani silk sarees have gold zari work on them and are quite expensive.

Weaving Traditions:Southern extravaganza

Tamil Nadu: ‘Kanjivaram’ or ‘Kanchipuram’ sarees from the district of Kanchipuram are known for their luxurious and strong material. The borders are broad and sturdy. Kanjivaram sarees have heavy gold embroidery and are worn on special occasions.

Karnataka: Mysore silk is obtained from the mulberry silkworms and is perhaps the most produced silk in India. Mysore silk designs are modest and unassuming. The sarees do not require any ironing or maintenance. Mysore silk has weaving traditions that are passed on from mothers to daughters due to their everlasting quality.

Andhra Pradesh: Venkatgiri sarees originate from Venkatgiri in Andhra Pradesh. The sarees are lightweight and airy. Ornate zari and brocade work is used to make these sarees. The sarees are also considered regal as they were mostly worn by queens and princesses.

Kerala: Kasavu sarees are considered apt for religious ceremonies in Kerala. The sarees are characterized by a gold border and an overall cream colour. Originally, it was a three-part garment where the pallu was not seen as a vital addition. However, these days, it is worn and manufactured like a saree. The saree is a particular favourite among women for the festival of Onam.

Khinkhwab

The weaving traditions of India not only portray the centuries-old traditions but also speak of the craftsmanship of the weavers and tell tales of the land.

At ‘Khinkhwab’, we offer a wide array of bona fide handloom sarees. Our beautiful sarees bring out the grace and the beauty of a woman in the most magnificent and stately manner.