Why designer bags have gone micro

The other day, I watched a five-year-old delving into a glitzy, Lilliputian-sized, quite obviously designer handbag. I wondered two things: who gives a designer handbag to a little girl, and what on earth might you carry in something so tiny?

I was about to mentally pass judgement when I realised that the bag actually belonged to her mother. It was further proof – if more were needed – that bags are shrinking, although I’m not sure anyone forecast they’d become credit-card sized.

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photos:prom dress shops

Because, forget mini: today’s cult bags are positively micro. While reducing bag sizes is good news for our backs and shoulders, it is perhaps surprising that grown women have reconciled themselves to carrying something that barely holds a travel card, iPhone or set of keys. And yet, they have.

Sales of smaller bags have risen by 200 per cent at Debenhams, with sizes shrinking from 350 cubic inches to just 120 cubic inches. Meanwhile John Lewis, the nation’s bellwether department store, is trading 72 per cent up on last year when it comes to micro bags.

And earlier this year it was reported that Michael Kors credited its fillip in revenue (up 6.3 per cent in the last quarter) in part to the success of small leather items, including wallets and cross-body bags.

Luxury brands have homed in on this trend by producing mini versions of their best-sellers. Last year, Louis Vuitton launched its Nano range, including miniatures of classic bags like the Speedy and the Alma.

They proved so popular that this season it has added a camera-box bag that measures 4.3 by 5.9 inches and a monogrammed rucksack that’s pretty much the same dimensions as an iPad mini. They’ve been joined on the market by Prada’s Saffiano Lux Micro Tote and Jimmy Choo’s Lockett.

‘From the brand’s point of view, these diminutive bags provide an accessible price point into the market, attracting a younger clientele,’ explains Natalie Kingham, buying director at Matches Fashion.

‘They often sell out as soon as they arrive.’ Kingham notes that micro bags are also often designed in more contemporary styles – cross-body or camera shapes, for example – which appeal to a younger audience.

Niche brand Manu Atelier is flying off the shelves this season with its highly covetable assortment of leather stitch bags that are the epitome of relaxed elegance, yet start from £285.

Meanwhile, LK Bennett recently collaborated with the British artist Boyard, who hand-painted the wearer’s initials in a pop-art style on their Mariel bag for £145.

The engagement on social media far exceeded expectations and stores saw a surge in new, younger customers. But while the micro’s price tag often reflects its diminutive size, that is by no means always the case.

Céline’s Mini Luggage style, as toted around by Kendall Jenner, costs more than £1,000, while Fendi’s Micro Peekaboo will set you back £940.

‘Our customers love Gucci’s mini Dionysus and Chloé’s small Faye styles, which immediately sold out and are on reorder,’ confirms Billie Faricy-Hyett, senior bags buyer at Net-a-Porter. ‘Both are between £900-£1,000 and are continually best-sellers.’

With their boldly embellished dinkiness (what is it about small bags that brings out the maximalist in accessories designers?), this new raft of micro bags may seem to go against a streamlined, minimalist aesthetic – but actually they encourage us to leave the house carrying substantially less clutter.

Ame Moi, a new label from Portugal, has produced tiny bags that resemble exquisite jewellery boxes – and, as such, force you to be uber-disciplined with what you pack.

‘We don’t need to be lugging our whole life around in our handbags,’ says Helen David, Harrods’ chief merchant. ‘A mini bag forces you to carry only what you need, which actually isn’t that much.’

Certainly, the way we live has changed: we travel lighter, carry cards not cash, and, for better or worse, most of our life is on our phones.

That’s the very reason accessories designer Melissa Del Bono of Meli Melo says she created her Micro Box to the proportions of the iPhone 6 and Android phone. The hands-free factor looms large, too.

Since Anya Hindmarch started championing the hands-free bag seven years ago (it coincided with my first maternity leave and felt liberating in a way a lot of fashion trends don’t), it has become increasingly important to her designs.

‘Our Crisp Packet – and actually all of our clutches – now come with a cross-body chain,’ says Hindmarch, ‘because our customers are increasingly wearing them during the day. I think the contrast of wearing a precious micro bag with jeans and a sweater is a great look. This smaller cross-body style is a rapidly growing category for us.’

But where did this trend come from? The focus on dinky accessories could be traced back to the catwalk success of Fendi’s monsters – those furry keyrings that bolstered the Italian label’s fortunes back in 2013.

Did women get used to the allure of walking around with jingle-jangle charms? (Many a street-style blogger leaves home each morning with several micro bags on their shoulder.)

‘It’s true that these bags are almost a crossover point between accessory and jewellery,’ says Eleanor Robinson, head of accessories at Selfridges. ‘Micro bags are all about shape and colour, adding interesting texture and playfulness to your look.’

Natalie Kingham agrees: ‘We have seen an increase in collectible miniature bags – such as the Fendi Micro Baguette, Gucci’s crystal-embellished cross-bodies and the Dolce & Gabbana embellished Plexiglas box clutch. These are tapping into a different customer base and are for women who are looking for very special pieces that are almost like works of art and for decoration, or which have a sense of humour rather than more practical purposes.’

Not that this gives a wholly realistic picture of the way we cart around our gym kit and laptop.

One high-flying fashion PR chuckles at the memory of several women who checked oversized totes into the Wolseley cloakroom, before sauntering to their table with their tiny bags.

‘Personally, I love a bag within a bag,’ says the eminently sensible and stylish accessories designer Sandra Choi, creative director of Jimmy Choo. ‘I have my small bag and my larger tote…. The most important things are in the smaller bag. Women today are so busy, juggling it all is a lifestyle choice as much as a style choice.’ Need a reason to skip the guilt factor and invest in two bags?

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