When it comes to contouring, makeup artist Rob Scheppy is one of the best—it’s one of the major reasons he’s become one of the staple members of the Kardashian/Jenner family glam squad. In fact, Kim even took him along for her big Blond Paris Fashion Week Trip of 2015. And yesterday he gave held a seminar with RC Cosmetics Here’s are a few key things he told us:

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First, his contouring philosophy: “For me, it’s about redefining certain features—what you want to highlight and what you want to get rid of.”

When you’re picking out your shades, remember…

—Choose a foundation that matches your skin tone, then one that’s a shade darker for the shadows (like the dent under your cheekbones) and one that’s a shade lighter for the areas you want to keep lighter or you want to highlight (like the area under your eyes). Sure, you can go more drastic than that in contrast, but for real life, it can look jarring if you’re not an expert blender. So start subtle, it’ll be enough to make a difference.

—Think matte for exaggerating shadows and shimmer for highlighting. In other words, the areas you want to recede, you want to keep shimmer-free. Sparkle will only draw attention, which is why it’s good for high points you want to make pop like your cheekbones.

—If you have dark skin, concentrate on highlighting more than deepening the shadows of your face. Since a dark skin tone already plays up the shadowy areas, highlighting is the key to contouring for you.

When it’s time to apply here’s what to remember.

—The general areas you want to darken are the line under your cheekbones (where your cheeks naturally indent), the area around your hairline, your jawline (to make your face look slimmer and more oval), and the sides or your nose up into the creases of your eyes. You can also bring the darker shade under your chin and down your neck if you want to hide a double chin.

—The places to hit with a lighter shade: under the eyes, in the flat area in the center of your forehead, the center of your chin and the strip down the middle of your nose.

—Blend, blend, blend. Scheppy likes to use a sponge dipped in moisturizer to blot and smudge until the lines are all blended away. He also uses this sponge to go over foundation before he starts the contour process to get an airbrushed effect.

Of course, all this is easier with the RC Cosmetics sets he uses. The Brush IQ Mini Face Contour Brush Set comes with two blending brushes and the magic sponge he uses to makes everything look so seamless and Brush iQ Eye Defining Brush Set comes with three tools that’ll make getting the perfect smoky eye a breeze.

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