Fashion Blogs

The “return of the Nineties” has been a refrain shouted by monthly magazines over the past few years, acknowledging the fact that many designers have been mining the archives of late 1990s Helmut Lang, Maison Margiela and others newly retired, updating their greatest hits for today’s women.

One man who contributed to defining both subtle luxury and the charismatic designer-as-superstar was Victor Alfaro. His clean, thoughtful and sensual approach to design won him legions of fans: customers, retailers and press alike. His shows in the late 1990s were littered with every supermodel there was, most of whom are having comebacks today like Amber Valletta, Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista and Cindy Crawford. But having entered into an unsuccessful partnership with an Italian manufacturer in 1998 and parting ways from his own-name label a few later, it took him almost 15 years to buy it back and quietly return to the fashion week schedule in New York. His comeback was unbeknown to many but resulted in a great deal of fervour and excitement among those who did.

In fact, Alfaro’s sabbatical from the fashion cycle was a blessing in disguise. Taking a break from creating clothes, he delved into his second love – art and design – and became a consultant for some of the wealthiest collectors in the world, advising them on art, furniture and objets to invest in. He spent over 10 years expressing himself through developing a visual dictionary and a collection of some of the best pieces in the world for others and himself.

It’s his incredible eye for beauty that I think led him back to his first love. A few years ago, having been able to buy back his name (something many in similar failed partnerships don't get to do) he quietly began creating clothes again. It started with a small collection of pieces he showed to trusted friends who were buyers – and Barneys snapped it all up. And so did its customers, selling out of most of the styles he produced for the store. Four seasons later Alfaro found himself showing a collection in New York to a small(ish) gathering of his nearest and dearest, declaring it a fashion show that wasn't meant to be a fashion show.

What was meant to be eight looks turned into a full 36 when he got both Pat McGrath and Eugene Souleiman, make-up and hair masters extraordinaire, to share his vision and create a total look inspired by art references tacked up around the studio. It was plain to see that Alfaro’s deftness at using luxury fabrics remained – both in the seemingly simple silk dresses that hang beautifully and in the hand knit sweaters embroidered with flowers. The customer who loved his quality cashmere in the 1990s will come back for more, and new customers who dreamt of owning a Victor Alfaro (me! me!) can now indulge our fantasies. It’s been a long time coming, but he’s oh so worth the wait.

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