Uncut heritage: Polki Jewellery

The inseparable affair between the ladies and the diamonds is a chronicle that has been going on for centuries. Diamonds in any shape or form are the favourite of many. India is a land that has seen traditions developing into a culture-changing into the modern era; the art of jewellery making has also gone under this transition.

One of the elements that still have stayed stagnant in our hearts is the art of the uncut diamond also known as the Polki Jewellery. Whether it is the Bollywood celebrities, royal heirs, or the commoners Polki jewellery resides in the hearts and jewellery boxes of all! It is a practice that has been prevailing for centuries of hand-crafted uncut diamonds that are used to carve Polki jewellery.

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What makes polki so special is the raw cuts and colors of the diamonds that are reflected in the pieces which are otherwise damaged by the glint of the well-cut diamonds. Combining these uncut diamonds along with other priceless gemstones and imitation stones you create the perfect raw essence of Polki Jewellery. This technique is the specialty of Bikaner in Rajasthan that dates back to the era of the Mughals. The pieces are now investments that are family heirlooms and sine qua non or the must-haves of the jewellery collections.

So what is polki jewellery exactly? How is it made? What is the history behind it? And what makes it so special? Here, we will be answering all your questions shortly as you keep on scrolling. 

The origins of this jewellery craft and art form have persisted in the indian heritage since the Mughal era. Polki is essentially and uncut, unpolished and unfiltered diamond, that is used in their natural and raw form without any physical or chemical treatment. They have a non-faceted polished surface and are usually crafted to follow the original form of the stone. Polki pieces are mostly kept still in their original rough shape; thus in a way are untouched by external variables. Due to this unique structuring, no two polki pieces are similar, making each one of them have a unique shape and are one-of-a-kind.

This art was a Bikaner specialization that eventually spread to other parts of the region. Polki jewellery is available in a variety of hues. The artisans' enamel work on this jewellery introduced colour and shine to the pieces. Since they were unpolished, uncut diamonds had rare and utterly enchanting visions. It is, in fact, one of the oldest varieties of cut diamonds, having formed in India well before the advent of western cutting techniques. Polki Jewellery pieces are incredibly costly because they are the purest type of diamond available. The fact that these compositions are commonly embellished with precious stones such as rubies, emeralds, other imitation jewel stones, and pearls further adds to their appeal.

Overall, Polki jewellery has an inherited traditional and cultural aesthetic. Polki jewelry has inherited the style of traditional and cultural. However, over the few several years, this form of jewelry has evolved and transitioned in many different ways bringing in variety that allows different generations to be involved and this is the fact that sets them apart from many handicrafts in India. Modern-day inventions go beyond the uncut approach that has made them popular in the world and beyond. Rubies, emeralds, and pearls have also been used to improve the overall beauty of polka jewellery. Western designers like Jagger, who is based in London, and others have begun to incorporate these classic gems into their pieces.

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The polki diamonds used in bridal jewellery still have a traditional touch to it. Today, one can find exquisite Polki pieces which have been crafted in states like Hyderabad, Orissa, Uttar Pradesh, and even Gujarat. Each state has added its own innovation or technique, thus making Polki is a universal type of jewelry and craft. Some of the best diamond jewelry brands in India include Hazoorilal Legacy; the pieces give the traditional jewellery a modern twist.

There are different polki techniques that are used in polki jewellery making.Techniques like jadau, badroom and takkar—each one requires different skill set and each one of them also come out with different results and patterns. Jadau, comes from the word ’jad’ a colloquial which literally means for embedding.  The detailed art of making a Jadau piece was introduced in India by the Mughals and further expanded in Rajasthan and parts of Gujrat. Skilled craftsman of Rajasthan practiced this art with full attention, making Rajasthan the hub of Jadau Jewellery. This jewellery combines the use of diamonds in Kundan and Polki jobs, as well as Meenakari, a Bikaner-based talent. With every shine and glitter, the laborious work of handcrafting each piece of jewel during the Mughal period screamed bespoke and grandeur.

It refers to the jewellery making process or technique where polki diamonds are placed on a silver or gold foil. The diamond or other stones are placed into the frame of the jewellery without any adhesive and the metal is moulded according to the stone.  This placing on the silver or gold foil leads the stones or the final piece to a brilliant shine when they reflect light.  It involves competent and one-of-a-kind craftsmanship, which, of course, adds to its allure. Traditional jewellery is made without the use of technology, which increases the number of man hours required to make it and makes it extremely valuable.

The skilled rajasthani group artisans who design the Jadau pieces are called Chiterias. Once the design is created, the piece is passed on to Ghaarias, another group of artisans who possess the art of engraving and making space by shaping or moulding the gold. The stones are left to naturally set in the gold frame. Finally it is passed on to the enameller to decorate the back of the jewellery in meenakari work.The badroom setting is a tulle pattern where polkis are packed and placed in a  24K gold metal frame which follows a jaali pattern. The takkar polki setting involves arranging embedded polkis edge to edge with one another, without the use of any metal packing.

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This art necessitates a high level of expertise and determination, and skill set.  Depending on the complexity of the design. Each piece can take up to several days or even months to be completed. Since the polkis must be cut and polished to the same shape and scale, the takkar technique takes around one or two months per piece. Uncut diamonds were included in the initial designs of this diamond jewellery. There was no other metal used in the construction process.

With the passing of time and the influence of other nations, pearls and other imitation metals were gradually used in the production of this jewellery. Rubies are an important part of this jewellery as well especially due to its colour and the significance of red in the Indian Society. Rubies gave this kind of jewellery a red hue, making it perfect for a bridal trousseau. Due to their affordability, emeralds are the most popular option for enhancing designs, followed by sapphires.

Jewellery is no longer the only limit by gold or silver metal used in jewellery. Customers are increasingly purchasing polki and kundan jewellery to pass on to future generations as a good wish, decorative piece or heirlooms. Along with conventional types of jewellery, polki has evolved to keep up with the informal fashion. Many designers are also using the polki technique to create casual wear jewellery, offering women the option of wearing diamonds on casual occasions as well. Indian brides are especially fond of polki maang tikkas and kangans.

Polki Jewellery has a great cultural significance in the indian tradition, especially when we talk about weddings. It has a long history as well as a timeless appeal. Owning a piece of polki jewellery is considered a precious addition to an Indian woman's jewellery box since it is one of the oldest types of traditional jewellery. Different communities have their own piece of polki jewellery.

8844293283?profile=originalRajputi brides, for example, enjoy rigid and necklaces. Layered chokers with long haars or hard roues. Polki is a perfect gifting piece for every occasion other than weddings and religious holidays. The renaissance of polki jewellery has been fuelled by a revived interest in ancient Indian crafts. By gathering influence from royalty and reimagining styles of our trademark craftsmanship, we weave historic links into our collections. New silhouettes in pastel hues are combined with age-old classic techniques.

Each new range that is coming out  is adorned with precious jewels such as Mughal-carved rubies, modern rose-cut diamonds, old European-cut diamonds, pink sapphires, and natural pearls, and thinks beyond patterns. Designers find their way to modernize and preserve it through the various transitions that take place in society and culture.

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