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August 27 was a big day for a group of women, majority of them hailing from Patan. Dressed in their traditional Ahir attire, they confidently walked the ramp at the Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) in Mumbai, treating the audience in view to intricate embroidery.

The self-designed clothes were in the limelight for the first time as part of designer Anita Dongre's initiative to collaborate with Self Employed Women's Association (SEWA) to provide a platform to art and artisans of the state.

Recalling the experience, Sokhi Ahir, a resident of Dhokawada near Santalpur in Patan district said, "We couldn't sleep properly the previous night as there were apprehensions whether we would be able to reach the venue or not after our train got cancelled because of unrest in the state. Our prayers were answered as we flew to Mumbai! It was a tour of so many firsts - first air travel, first stay in a hotel and of course — the ramp walks. We were very conscious about how we looked in front of so many models as we had not put our make-up on. The moment we received a standing ovation will remain etched in our memories."

photo: vintage bridesmaid dresses

The occasion was also a big moment for SEWA Trade Facilitation Centre (STFC) or Unnat Bajaar as their product received recognition on fashion front. With their 'Hansiba' brand going places, the collaboration with Dongre's Grassroots brand was a natural stepping stone. SEWA officials said that the move has resulted into steady stream of work for the artisans round the year and has doubled their average income, which is now up to Rs 10,000 per month.

Reema Nanavaty, chairperson of STFC, said that the initiative was started a decade back primarily to prevent the annual migration of the community members to different places due to dearth of water and grass for livestock.

"The art was passed on from one generation to another but it was primarily for their daily wares and decorative pieces such as toran. We started off with 50 women which over the years have turned into a 15,000 strong network. Through a common friend, we got in touch with Dongre, who liked the work and saw potential in it, after which the collaboration took place," she said.

The initiative, however, was far from easy.

A trainer told TOI that the artisans work primarily with set colours and clothes with set patterns. "When the first assignment came up to make a peacock with colours like black and grey on satin, the artisans thought that the idea was crazy as peacock has vibrant colours," she said. However, over the last year, the artisans have delivered the designs required by label as they quickly learnt the ropes. The officials added that they have integrated a number of patterns in their work that has been well-received by the market.

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