When Ruba Zai uploaded her first video online, the Netherlands-based Afghan student just wanted to share with other Muslim girls and women how she styled her headscarf. She had no idea that her "hijab tutorials" would be an Internet hit, watched by hundreds of thousands worldwide.

The 23-year-old now blogs full time, sharing ideas for how to look trendy yet covered-up with a million Instagram followers. Zai had tapped into a fast-growing market for so-called modest fashion, fueled by young, style-savvy Muslim women from London to Malaysia who have long felt that their needs were ignored by mainstream designers.

"I just couldn't relate at all to the clothes you see in the mainstream brands," she said from her home in Rotterdam. "When we first started talking about our style on social media, there was no interest in the fashion world in this group of people: 'They're just Muslims, why should we target them?'"

Big brands have been waking up to that call, and covered-up chic is a niche that's slowly making its way into mainstream fashion. From exclusive designers to fast-fashion chains, retailers are trying to court millions of Muslim consumers -- especially around the month of Ramadan, which started late last month, when many Muslims buy new clothes and dress up. In 2014, U.S. fashion house DKNY was one of the first Western brands to launch a Ramadan collection aimed at wealthy Arab shoppers.

Since then, several others have followed suit. Dolce & Gabbana has been selling a luxury collection of abayas -- long, loose robe-like dresses -- and matching headscarves since 2016 in the Middle East, Paris and London. At the more affordable end of the market, Spanish chain Mango is also promoting a Ramadan collection of tunics, caftans and maxi dresses for the second year.

Earlier this year Nike became the first major brand to launch a "pro hijab," a headscarf made in high-tech fabrics aimed at female Muslim athletes. Even Marks and Spencer, that stalwart British department store known for cardigans and practical shoes, launched a burkini -- a full-body swimsuit -- last summer.Read more at:black prom dresses | pink prom dresses

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