Draping vs. Drafting

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Permalink Reply by Deb Kicklighter on November 29, 2008 at 6:33pm

Well a lot of times its up to the Pattern Maker.
I use both and come up with a beautifull garment that has and excellent fit.
With Draping you can create on the body the style lines to flow with the body.
Drafting or truing up the drape cleans up and corrects the lines for better sewing.
If you want a beautifull garment use both together.
Deb Kicklighter

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Permalink Reply by J C Sprowls on November 30, 2008 at 1:40pm

It is the patternmaker's discretion to choose the process in order to deliver a production-ready pattern. That said, companies paying patternmaker salaries require work to be accurate and timely. In the past, I've been required to produce at least 3 to 5 styles a day (I was also my own sample stitcher, too). These time constraints will cause you to eliminate lengthy processes, quickly.

"Old school" patternmakers tend to hold the opinion that draping is really a design function.My opinion is that draping allows the designer to finalize the concept, so that's fine. But, I have never seen a patternmaker - not myself or any other - convert the designer's finished drape into a pattern - we just re-draft it from zero using whichever method we prefer.

Can I drape? Yes. Do I drape? Almost never. Actually, only when I need to work out something I've never done before. And, then, I do it on a 1/2 scale and try to figure out how it should be done by drafting.

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Permalink Reply by Deb Kicklighter on December 5, 2008 at 1:18pm

Hi
I have been in the biz for many years and have found that just like any thing in this life there are
pros and cons to any subject.
I am not just a patternmaker but also a designer and just like finger prints we are all different.
Designing and Patternmaking are both art forms and crafts.
Yor are right about deliving the product.
Accurate important-Timely important---Fit most important
I love draping, I love excellent fitting garments and the people who have hired me have too(SMILES)
Lets talk again.

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Permalink Reply by nkatha on January 20, 2009 at 12:47pm

speaking of draping, where can I get a dummy (is there a specific other name for it?)and how much do they usually cost? Do they come in one siz? An international store recommendation would also be good cos I'm based in Africa.
Thanks

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Permalink Reply by Mariella Adrian on January 20, 2009 at 10:43pm

They are actually called "dress forms" Prices vary ranging from $500.00 to $1000.00+ depending on specific style. Try "Wolf Forms" or "Superior Forms". I believe these are the best quality

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Permalink Reply by Hayleigh McNamara on February 11, 2010 at 7:33am

Hi could you tell me how draping would be carried out in industry. would it be done by hand of machine? i need to know for my coursework

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Permalink Reply by Mariella Adrian on February 11, 2010 at 2:38pm

Draping is a "must" in the industry when you are working on high end clothing, especially eveningwear. A dress form is your tool for transferring a flat sketch to 3D concept, or to work creatively and unrestricted in 3D, and then sketch your flat version on paper.
The "art" of draping is always a manual process which allows an immediate visual of your creation.
If dealing with basic pcs., then pattern manipulation and flat drafting could be a more suitable attempt, however for me, working both methods at the same time is always the more accurate outcome. You know exactly where your lines go, how they tilt, etc...

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Permalink Reply by nkatha on November 1, 2010 at 10:11am

Thanks Mariella, I havent been here in a while and would love to go looking for a dress form soon. I started my company though and my first line was simple using flat patterns on brown paper. Lets see how this goes. Thanks.Now to get help shipping the dress form to me in Kenya)

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Permalink Reply by Mariella Adrian on November 1, 2010 at 1:47pm

You are welcome Nkatha. Good luck in your new business venture and have fun while creating..Technicalities should be applied later....

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